eating in Azerbaijan

Here's the shopping I just did.

German chocolate and marzipan to take to IT guy on Monday as a peace offering so he doesn't hate me. (It won't work. But it's a gesture. Which he'll probably resent because he's on a diet, which I find ridiculous because he's already scrawny but I keep my mouth shut. Because I'm a good friend like that, even though I ratted him out accidentally.)

A rotisserie chicken that I'll use for wraps and then the carcass for soup stock for lentil soup.

Tomatoes and cucumbers for the wraps, for salad, and the tomatoes to go in the borscht I'll make tomorrow. (Tomorrow I'll buy onions and beets and potatoes and cabbage for that.)

A big hunk of meat that will go either for a very large batch of borscht or I'll freeze half for using later.

The white round container: fresh yogurt (qatiq) that I add to many things (soups and musli and such) and enjoy plain. I might also get some "green garlic" and mix it up as a lavash spread.

Lavash, a flat bread that I'm currently obsessed with. Like a very thin tortilla. Nobody else that I know does this, but I wrap everything up in it. A perfect dinner for me is a "choban salat" (cucumbers and tomatoes), some fresh cheese, some greens like tarragon, all wrapped up in a piece of lavash. I plan to eat this extensively for the rest of my time here until I'm sick of it, and I'll add some olives to the mix.

Suzme pendir I'm hoping is the soft fresh cheese I had up north that I can add fresh herbs to and have as a lavash spread to eat with fresh vegetables.

White cheese, known as pendir here, for wrapping in lavash or having with salad or eating slices of plain. I don't know the fat content. I wish I did. But I think it's pretty low, because I cannot eat most cheese due to the fat and this doesn't bother me. Ditto for the suzme and yogurt. Their cream though, qaymaq, I don't even try to eat (it's heavy fat) except as a special treat in a hotel, lightly put on a hunk of white bread with a layer of local honey on top.

Greens: a big bunch of tarragon (which I never want to live without again - it's so amazing - I"ll put it in the wraps, in the salad, and I need to find another use for), a big bunch of dill (for tomorrow's borscht and also to get added to the suzme as a spreadable cheese to put on a wrap with salad), and a mystery green that is deep red. (No idea what it is and when I asked the guy in Russian he didn't understand a word I said and kept shouting prices at me. I like the taste and it is great in wraps, and I figure with the deep red it's gotta have good antixoxidants.)

Oranges.

Slivki is a Russian light cream (10% fat) that I use as half and half in my coffee. For whatever reason, regular milk just doesn't cut it for me - I want just a little bit more fat to make my coffee amazing. Fat carries taste, after all, and I'm not afraid of fat - I just don't want to eat more than I need.

Musli cereal for pretty cheap (which I like with kefir, but I already had so many dairy products I couldn't make myself buy more). I'm trying to figure out a new breakfast routine and I might try this but I have doubts it'll keep me sustained throughout a morning. I need to work out a snack routine too, but ... well, it's always been an issue for me.

Anyway, this is the way I typically eat here.

DO YOU SEE ANY PIZZA??
(Our snarky driver said I shouldn't bother learning Azeri words for food since I'll leave soon and expats just eat pizza anyway.)

Cabbage With Tomatoes, Bulgur and Chickpeas

From here; serves six

(By MARTHA ROSE SHULMAN: This recipe is based on a Greek dish made with red cabbage. I’ve used both green and red cabbage, and I like it both ways. It’s a comforting vegan dish that works as an entree or a side.)

• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• Salt to taste
• 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
• 1 medium head green or red cabbage, finely shredded
• 1 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes with juice
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, cider vinegar or sherry vinegar
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
• 2 cups water
• 1 cup coarse bulgur
• 1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy lidded skillet or Dutch oven. Add the onion, and cook, stirring often, until tender, about five minutes. Stir in a pinch of salt and the paprika. Cook, stirring, until the onion is thoroughly tender and infused with paprika, three to four minutes.

2. Add the cabbage, and cook, stirring, for three minutes or until it begins to wilt. Stir in the tomatoes, sugar and vinegar, and add salt to taste. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat, cover and simmer 15 minutes until the cabbage is thoroughly tender.

3. Stir in the dill and the water, and bring a to a boil. Add the bulgur and chickpeas. Stir to combine. When the water comes back to a boil, reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer 10 minutes or until all of the water has been absorbed. Remove from the heat, taste and adjust seasonings, and serve hot or at room temperature.

more ideas!

One of my goals right now is to eat more legumes, as meat's pretty expensive and I get it most days for lunch.

Skype chatting with the German brought up these ideas:

Nivik (chickpeas with spinach)

Lentil and chard soup: "Fry onion and garlic in oil, add chard or spinach, and 1/4 cup of cilantro, when wilted, pour into lentils (brown ones, 1 1/2 cups dry, 6 c water) with their cooking liquid, season with salt, pepper, lemon juice.
Soak up the yummy soup with khoubiz or your white bread, whatever its name.
Add spring onions for serving!"

Plus I just got red lentils for this soup.

And, what sparked the conversation is that I'm boiling garbanzos now to make harira - which is always a hit and freezes well if leaving out the pasta and not putting in much potato.

That's rather my goal - cooking now to eat later. It's so much easier and less time-consuming to make a big pot of something to freeze half than to make it all twice.

beef and quince plov

Plov is the national Azerbaijani dish, and it basically appears to mean (from what I've had) rice cooked with saffron and broth served with a stew of sorts. Our cook at work makes it and includes meat, dried fruits, and chestnuts. I love rice, and what's not to like about meat and fruit?

I also love quince, which I probably haven't had in the 23 years since I lived in Germany. It's a special, sweet flavor. So when my German friend who is an extraordinary international cuisine expert suggested a quince with beef plov, that sounded perfect.

I pretty much copied it from this site, and I'll make notes to remember for later.

Overall, it was really good - just really rich and a tad too sweet. I'd love to add more vegetables to it so I need to think about what would go well. Or maybe the answer is to have a good salad with it and reduce the portion size of the plov. It was quite a bit of work to saute everything separately, but I do think it made the taste really, really good. It was exactly what I wanted after a week of pretty "meh" food in Istanbul (don't know how we found the only blah places in town, but we did).

My beef was pretty tough but before it got tender the quince got a little too soft - so I'd probably add the quince in later and let the beef stew away first.

Persian beef with quince (Khoreshe behh)
(Blog: "In Erica's Kitchen" and adapted from a recipe by Haydeh Bina Motavasel)

• 4 Tbsp olive oil, divided
• 2 onions, finely chopped
• 2 pounds stew beef cut into smallish cubes (lamb or veal work also)
• 1/2 tsp turmeric
• 1/4 tsp cinnamon (definitely no more - this small amount is great)
  
• 2-3 Tbsp tomato paste
• 1/4 cup lemon juice
• salt and pepper
• 2-3 quinces, cored and cubed, not peeled (resist impulse to put in more - but do figure out vegetables to add in)
  
• handful of prunes
• 3 Tbsp honey (reduce or omit - the fruit is sweet enough)
  

Heat 3 Tbsp olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Brown the meat in batches until it is seared well on all sides, then remove the meat to a plate. Add the onions and cook 6-8 minutes, until the onions are starting to brown nicely. Add the meat and any juices that have accumulated on the plate back to the pot. Add the turmeric, cinnamon, tomato paste, lemon juice, salt and pepper, and enough water to come halfway up the meat mixture. Stir to combine and bring the pot to a simmer.

While the meat is coming to a simmer, heat the remaining 1 Tbsp olive oil in a skillet and saute the quince for a few minutes. You don't want to cook it thoroughly, just to start caramelizing the edges. Add the quince to the stew pot along with the prunes and honey. By this time the stew should be simmering; stir everything to combine, cover the pot, and let it cook a good three hours over very low heat. Check it occasionally to make sure there is enough liquid in the pot, and if it looks dry, add some water. Shirin notes that the longer it cooks, the better it will be.

***

HERE IS ANOTHER RECIPE (2024 update) that includes a lot of carrots so that sounds good and I'll make it today with brown basmati (halving it).  Edit:  the brown rice I just couldn't get to cook so I think I need to partially cook it and then add it.  The quince can be cooked less.  And, it took like three hours to cook, which I wasn't expecting.  But, otherwise it's good and I would definitely make it again. 

 

• 1 cup brown basmati rice, rinsed
• 1/2#+ stew beef or lamb
• salt, pepper
• 1/3 cup oil 
• 2 onions (or 1 large), cut into wedges
• 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp ground allspice
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 quince, cut into wedges and cored and peeled
• 3 carrots, cut into thick matchsticks
• 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
• 1/2 tsp black pepper
• 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
• 1/4 tsp paprika
• 6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1/4 cup currants (or other dried fruit)
• fresh pomegranate seeds for garnish
  

Prepare the Plov

1. Put the rinsed rice into a large bowl of cold water to soak while you start the recipe. Season the beef with salt and pepper.

2. Heat the oil in the pan until hot and foaming.

3. Brown the beef over medium–high heat, in batches if necessary, then remove from the pan with a slotted spoon leaving the oil behind. Lower the heat to medium and add the onions, cumin, and allspice. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden.

4. Return the beef to the pan with any collected juices, the bay leaves, quinces, and a small cupful of water. Bring to a boil then turn the heat down very low, cover the pan, and gently simmer for one hour until the meat is tender.

5. Spread over the carrot matchsticks, but don’t stir as you want to keep the layers separate. Scatter with the spices and cover and cook for another 10 minutes.

6. Drain the rice and layer it on top of the carrots. Poke the whole garlic cloves and cinnamon sticks into the rice and flatten the top with the back of a spoon. Scatter over the currants. Season very generously with salt and slowly pour in enough boiling water to just cover the top of the rice. Increase the heat and leave the pan uncovered so that the water starts to boil away.

7. When the liquid has cooked off, make six holes in the rice using the handle of a wooden spoon to help the steam escape. Cover the pan and cook at a low simmer for five minutes. Turn off the heat without removing the lid and leave the dish to steam undisturbed for another 10 minutes. If the rice isn’t cooked, add a splash more boiling water and cover again.

8. Serve the layers in reverse, first spooning the rice onto the platter, then the carrots, and finally the tender chunks of meat on the top. Rain fresh pomegranate seeds over the top.

 

borscht

This recipe helped me remember the bits, and then I made it my own. Super, super yummy!

First, turn on Rebirth Brass Band. Loud. Everything tastes better when cooked to Rebirth.

Saute together:
2 chopped onions (or more!)
6 cloves chopped garlic
1 bunch chopped dill (or more)
1/2 - 1 pound stew meat*

Once it's seared and browned, add water (I usually fill the pot about halfway full) and cook at low heat an hour or so. (If using fatty cut, skim off fat.)

When the beef is tender, add the following:

4 beets, peeled and chopped (add this before the other things and wait 15 minutes or so, if possible - beets take the longest to cook)
half medium head cabbage, chopped
2 small potatoes, chopped (but they don't freeze well)
2 medium carrots, chopped (I'm not a big fan of this in borscht - leave out next time and see)
3 small-medium tomatoes, chopped (can of tomatoes works great)
1 lemon, squeezed (or a bit of vinegar)
salt
pepper

Cook about 1/2 - 1 hour, until vegetables are tender.

Serve with sour cream and more dill, if desired.


*Note: Meat intimidates me, especially in a completely different culture where I don't speak the language. If I could chat up the butcher, I'd get a good cut of bone-in meat and make a rich stock and use that. Um, I can't. But I still put in beef to add protein and richness of taste. Just a bit over a pound was too much for me, though.

tamale pie

I brought back some Trader Joe's taco seasoning mix last time I visited the US and it needs to be used, so tamale pie it is! (If I want to make this in the future, I'll just my own mixture of spices. For whatever reason when I was standing there at TJ's, I just had to have that packet. Who knows my thinking.)

Crust: (Combine and put in bottom of pie tin or casserole)
1 cup cornmeal
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg, slightly beaten
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
(1 cup whole kernel corn, drained)

Saute together in a little oil:
2+ small onions
3-4 cloves garlic

Add:
1# ground beef and cook until browned.

Take off heat and add:
taco meat seasoning packet
diced peppers (fresh or canned)
diced tomatoes (1 can) and/or tomato sauce
black beans (1 can - or kidney or pinto)
frozen or canned corn (I omit)

Stir together. Put on top of crust. Bake at 350 degrees about 30 minutes. Sprinkle with cheese and put back in oven to melt.

Eat with sour cream/yogurt and salsa and cilantro.

**

Update from August 2025 - this vegetarian tamale pie from NY Times popped up on a feed, and while it's more labor intensive (broiling peppers), it seems tasty and I plan to make it soon.  I think it may freeze well, which has become a common food prep thing for me which really helps when too busy to cook.  Bonus is that I have almost all the ingredients on hand (only need to pick up jalapenos, as I pickled them all yesterday), and I have just about that amount of cornmeal needing to be used up.  

Ingredients

Yield:6 to 8 servings

For the Chili

• 1large red or white onion, halved
• 2jalapeños, halved lengthwise and seeded (if desired)
• 1poblano or green bell pepper, sliced in half lengthwise, seeds removed
• 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
• 1¾teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more as needed
• 1(28-ounce) can whole plum or diced tomatoes
• 3fat garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
• 2tablespoons mild or hot chili powder, more as needed
• 2teaspoons dried oregano
• 1¾teaspoons ground cumin
• 3(15-ounce) cans black or pinto beans, drained and rinsed
• 1cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems (optional)

For the Cornbread

• ¾cup/135 grams fine cornmeal
• 2tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1½teaspoons baking powder
• ½teaspoon kosher salt
• 1large egg, at room temperature
• ⅓cup/80 grams sour cream or whole-milk yogurt, plus more for serving
• ¼cup/57 grams unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• 2teaspoons honey
• 2scallions, whites and greens thinly sliced, plus more for serving
• 1cup grated Cheddar (optional)

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Prepare the chili: Move a rack as close to the heating element as possible and heat the broiler. Cover a baking sheet with foil. Finely dice half of the onion and set aside for later.

2. Step 2

   Slice remaining onion half into ½-inch-thick half-moons and arrange on the prepared baking sheet. Place jalapeños and poblano next to onions, cut sides down. Lightly brush vegetables with oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Broil 2 to 4 minutes, until vegetables are charred on one side. (If the chiles are small, they will be charred after 1 to 2 minutes.) Flip vegetables and broil until the other side is charred, 1 to 3 minutes.

3. Step 3

   Transfer pan to a rack until cool enough to handle, then stem the peppers. Transfer charred vegetables and any accumulated juices to a blender (or use a bowl and immersion blender). Add canned tomato and ¼ teaspoon salt, and blend to a coarse purée. You can make this up to 4 days ahead, and store in the refrigerator until needed.)

4. Step 4

   Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a large Dutch oven, heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high. Add diced onion and sauté until lightly browned, 6 to 9 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in chili powder, oregano, remaining 1½ teaspoons salt and cumin, and cook until spices darken, about 30 seconds.

5. Step 5

   Add beans and the reserved tomato purée, and let mixture simmer until thick like a chili, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in cilantro, if using. Taste and add more salt and chili powder, if needed.

6. Step 6

   While the chili simmers, prepare the cornbread: In a medium bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt.

7. Step 7

   In a small bowl, whisk together egg, sour cream, butter and honey. Whisk egg mixture into cornmeal mixture until combined. Fold in scallions.

8. Step 8

   Spread cornbread topping over the chili, then top with grated cheese, if using. Bake, uncovered, until cornbread is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot or warm, topped with sour cream and more scallions.

chicken soup to cure malaria

Well, that's the hope.

Stock:
chicken carcass, most good meat removed
2 small onions, chopped
5 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
(celery would be great but there's none here; would have put in celery seed if I could find it)
(I threw in 5 small very hot peppers. Next time I'd try it with 1-2.)
Herbes de provence (about 1 T)
basil (about 1 T)
salt
pepper

Boil that all for a few hours, until it tastes like chicken stock. Then drain it, pick meat off the bones, and discard the solids.

Soup:
Take the broth and add:
5-6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 small onions, chopped
3 carrots, chopped
seasoning to taste (more pepper and salt)
chopped chicken meat

Cook until carrots are soft (about half an hour).

Add frozen vegetables (I put in peas, beans, and broccoli) and egg noodles, cooking 8 minutes until noodles are tender.

(It's better to cook the noodles separately, otherwise they get too mushy with reheating. But I really didn't want to wash another pot.)