Sunday, March 17, 2019

Elly's whole wheat sourdough - 1 loaf

Here's another try at whole wheat sourdough, and she mills her wheat herself.  I did it as she suggests but it makes a long day because my house is cold (I put it in the oven too soon because I didn't want to stay up too late). Elly's Facebook group is here, with lots of other good information.

Morning before baking: extended cold autolyse.
  • 450 grams whole wheat flour (about 3 cups)
  • 405 grams filtered water*

Mix until no water left.  Cover and put in the refrigerator all day (about 12 hours).

In the evening of day 1, add:
  • 130 grams active starter
  • 9 grams salt

Mix it up well. 

Cover and leave to bulk ferment.  I have a spot in the corner above the heater, where the temperature is usually around 62 degrees.  Leave it about 10-12 hours, until rising and bubbly but not bubbles on top.

Morning of day 2
Shape the dough.  Elly has in her video a method of using stretch and fold for this.  Do it four times over an hour.  Use wet hands.

When ready for final shaping, prepare basket (I use a colander with parchment paper, that I can just move easily to the heated pan).  Shape and put it in container, leave for 1-3 hours.  (I put it in the folding proofer at 85 degrees for 1.5 hours and I think it needed more time.)  

When almost ready (indentations slowly fill in), heat oven up to about 475 degrees (or 450 convection, I use).  Bake 25 minutes in a hot covered dutch oven, then 15 minutes more uncovered. 

Let it cool several hours for best texture.

(I haven't tasted it yet, but the oven spring is promising.)





*I no longer have my Berkey water filter with me, and the tap water is quite chlorinated.  Filtered water in the store is very expensive.  There is fortunately an artesian well just outside town, but when there is any snow/ice on the ground it involves quite a production as they keep the gates to the area closed.  I borrowed a wheelbarrow from work, drove out there, and schlepped the half mile or more to the well, filled up two bottles, and schlepped back.  It was actually fine this time; the last time I tried it with four bottles and the road was very slippery and slushy, and it was pretty awful. 

Sunday, March 10, 2019

black bean soup

This soup is so good and perfect on a rainy Sunday.  Big thanks to Ms. Moon for clueing me into it and sharing screenshots!  It's from the NY Times recipe by Julia Moskin, which is behind a paywall so I can't see it.

Ingredients 
 
FOR THE SOUP:
  • 1 small can chipotle chiles in adobo
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 carrots, diced 
  • 2 onions, peeled and chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 cup red wine
  • 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and chopped
  • 1 pound dry black beans (do not soak)
  • 2 quarts stock
  • 1 tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • Red wine vinegar, to taste 
FOR THE PICKLED ONIONS AND GARNISHES (OPTIONAL but don't skip the onion!):
  • 1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
  • Freshly squeezed juice of 2 limes
  • Salt
  • Sour cream or Mexican crema
  • Whole cilantro leaves
  • Thinly sliced fresh chiles
  • Sliced avocado
Instructions:
1. Puree can of chilis in blender/food processor, put aside.
2. Heat oil in large heavy pot.  When hot, add onions, garlic, and carrots. Cook until soft (about 5-8 minutes) but not brown.
3. Add in wine and simmer until pan almost dry.  Add jalapenos and cook until soft (2-3 minutes). Push vegetables to sides and add 2 teaspoons of chipotle sauce and fry a minute or so, then blend it in with the rest of the vegetables.
4. Add beans, stock, oregano, and bay leaves. Stir, bring to boil, let boil 10-15 minutes, then reduce heat and simmer an hour or two until beans are "soft and fragrant."*  Add salt and pepper.
5. Meanwhile, make "pickled onions."  Put lime juice and salt in with onion and let it sit about 30 minutes, then remove liquid and refrigerate. Serve onions with soup, with sour cream, etc. 

Some beans can be mashed if necessary for proper texture.  Taste and add salt, pepper, red wine vinegar, chipotles, etc. to taste.



For canning: I pulled a bunch of soup out when the beans were nearly soft and I put in pint jars and canned.  I wasn't sure of the time, so I went ahead with 75 minutes for pints. 

Sunday, March 3, 2019

100% whole wheat sourdough

I'm in the middle of making this bread (from here).  I anticipate I'll need to keep notes on how to make it work for me.  I find freshly milled wheat to be substantively different from the bagged whole wheat flour from the store I've always used.  I think autolysing is even more important and I do it longer.  Now that I have a grain mill and good supply of grain (I have the non-GMO hard white wheat from Palouse, which is quite good), I want to use it.  Flour is expensive here, especially good flour.  I don't want bleached, bromated flour making my bread, I want whole grains.  So, I'm giving this recipe a shot, which starts with a stiff starter. Times are for a Saturday-Sunday bake, though I'm going to try to make this on Sunday and refrigerate 24 hours until I can bake after work on Monday.

Prepare the 100% whole wheat stiff levain – 8:30 a.m

Weight Ingredient
50g Mature stiff starter
100g Whole Wheat flour
65g water @ 85ºF
Keep your levain in a warm area and wait about 4-5 or so hours until it’s matured enough to leaven your dough. You can see my whole wheat stiff levain all mixed up and in a tight shaped ball.  If using a stiff levain you want to use after significant expansion has taken place, but there is still a domed top (i.e., your “stiff ball” has not yet collapsed in the top-middle). If using a liquid levain you want bubbles on top and throughout and still a sweet smell to it, but almost tangy.

Sift Flour and Autolyse – 8:40 a.m.

Ingredients:

Gather the following:
Weight Ingredient Baker’s Percentage
1000g Central Milling Hi-Pro Medium Whole Wheat flour 100%
750g, 200 g H2O @ 80ºF, boiling 75%  
20g Fine sea salt 2%


Grind 1000 grams of flour (from ingredient listed below), and sift it. 
Pour the sifted, coarse bran into a small bowl and pour 200 grams of boiled water on top. Let this soaking mixture rest near your levain until ready to mix the dough.

Take the sifted flour and add 700 grams of water (about 80 degrees). Mix together and leave to set with levain and soaking bran.

Mix – 12:00 p.m.

After autolyse has finished break up 175g (17.5%) of the stiff, ripe levain on top of the dough, pour about half of the remaining warm water on top to help dissolve things.

He mixed for about 8 minutes, in the bowl, using a combination of the “pincer” method and stretch and folds. A “pincer” motion is performed by bringing your index finger and thumb together as you work from one side of the dough to the other, when you reach the end we do a stretch up and fold over. Do this over and over until you feel like the ingredients have been incorporated thoroughly. After this, you can do stretch and folds until the dough starts to feel a little more extensible, a little stronger.
After about 8 minutes of mixing, pour on your 20g salt and pincer through the dough to mix well. I mixed for an additional 2 minutes with salt added.
Final dough temperature: 79ºF
Ambient temperature: 80ºF (in the oven with light toggled on and off)

Bulk Fermentation – 12:10 p.m.

Transfer your dough to a container to be used during bulk fermentation and let rest for the first 30 minutes. After the first 30 minutes have passed, perform first set of stretch and folds.
  1. 12:40 p.m. – Turn Set 1
  2. 1:10 p.m. – Turn Set 2 – After this set gently fold (using a little water on your hands) in your sifted bran, resting in boiled water (it will have absorbed all 200g and will be moist but not wet)
  3. 1:40 p.m. – Turn Set 3 – Dough felt strong here so this was my last set, we want to avoid overworking this dough
Because of the higher protein amount in this whole wheat flour the dough looked plenty strong to me after three sets of stretch and folds. I let the dough rest from 1:40 p.m. to 4:10 p.m. to complete bulk fermentation.

Pre-shape – 4:10 p.m.

Divide dough into two halves. Pre-shape into two loosely shaped boules to rest for 20 minutes.
 It’s not important to have tightly rounded boules at this point, but if your dough feels exceptionally slack (mine did not), then a little extra tension here will help strengthen your dough. I try to avoid overworking whole wheat dough at this point, especially now since the bran has been incorporated.

Cover with inverted bowls or damp towels to keep the resting dough moist.

Shape + Proof – 4:30 p.m., Then in Fridge at 4:45 p.m.

After the 20 minute rest, shape each dough mass into a taut boule and put into the fridge.

Score + Bake – around 10:50 a.m. (or 5:00 pm ...)

Baking in a Dutch Oven

Place Dutch oven in oven and turn it to 500ºF for a 1-hour pre-heat. After one hour, take one of your bannetons out of the fridge and cut a piece of parchment paper to place on top. Take your peel and then put it on top of those two and quickly invert it, so the dough is now resting on the parchment paper which is resting on the peel.

Take out the shallow side of your Dutch oven and drag in your dough. Quickly place the pan back in the oven, cover with the deep side, and bake for 20 minutes at 500ºF. After 20 minutes, turn down the oven to 450ºF and cook covered for an additional 10 minutes. Once this 10 minute period is over, open the oven and take off the deep lid of the Dutch oven to vent the steam (set it next to the other half inside the oven), then cook for an additional 30 minutes or so, until the bread is to your desired doneness.

Wait as long as you can (preferably around 12-24 hours) before cutting. The interior stays quite tender for an extended period, and the flavor develops the next day.